SUSPENSION - Terminology

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method Part No Applications: MD256, MD266, MD276, MD286, MD286SP, MD296, MD296SP, MD310SP, MD530, MDM266/KIT, MDM276KIT, MDM286KIT Equipment required - Stop plate - mechanical stop plate for setting TDC (see text). Set of feeler blades Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore Accurate piston position indication is the first goal. You need to know exactly when piston one is at TDC. Without engineering measuring equipment a ‘stop plate’ is required. This you will either have to manufacture personally, or get one made. You need a piece of metal plate long enough to span the bore plus a couple of the head stud holes on either side - about 4.750" long by 1.375" wide will do the trick.

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Flywheel - Pre-Verto Types

The early spring-type clutch flywheels are of no use except where total originality is required on a concours car. The taper is too small and diaphragm pressure ring non-existent. No use to man nor beast. Part No Applications: C-AEG421, C-AEG420, C-AEG619, C-AEG620, 2A3657, 2A3658, 2A3659, 2A3512 With the exception of the fact the two-piece flywheel is two pieces bolted together - this and the later one-piece cast item can be treated as the same thing. They will universally fit all transverse engine cranks from 1964 onwards, so that should be easy enough. If all you can get is the hulking great 1300 type, then this too is as universal to fit, but I highly recommend you get that extra cast lump machined off of the outer edge as a bare minimum. Further lightening of these cast flywheels is possible by having metal machined off of the diaphragm side, from the outer edge of the diaphragm pressure ring outwards.

Injection - Tuning Update 03.14.03

This program of development embarked upon by myself and colleague Mike Barratt (MBE, Lincoln 01522 545189) was instigated by Keith Dodd, owner of Mini Spares centre. His instructions were for us ....

Air filtration - K&N Air cleaner test.

In the forefront of Mini tuning, improving the over-all breathing capability of the very asthmatic A-series the air filter set-up is one that sees priority attention. All the widely available (and widely varying) stage one tuning kits include at the very least a replacement - and hopefully - high-flow air filter element to fit into the standard plastic case,

In the past few years (well, must be nearly 6 years by now!) since I got involved with writing for the specialist Mini Magazines I have been continually fighting with the problem of limited space. This has limited what I have been able to cover, both in subjects and in details. Up until recently (say the past year or so) I have been covering fairly broad topics in a fairly broad terms and detail. Basically trying to cover perhaps the most popular areas dabbled in by the Mini owning masses.

Cylinder head - Suitability basics

Whatever else owners do to their Minis by way of interior/exterior modifications or none at all, a very large proportion desire and search for an increase in engine performance.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Now this may not be super-sonic speed-inducing power, it could just as well be for maximum economy. In either case, it's the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under scrutiny - it's ability to breath in as much correctly proportioned air/fuel mix as possible in any given situation. Although the induction/exhaust system plays an important part, there are effectively two major factors that dictate performance increases - the camshaft and cylinder head. The induction and exhaust elements (stage one kits, exhaust systems, etc.) and camshafts are covered in various other articles in my 'Corner'. So here we'll have a look at cylinder heads and dispel some of the myths and legends surrounding them.

Cylinder head - Torque-down and head gasket problems

This is to help those floundering in an unknown sea of techno-babble and 'magical' cures… Part No Applications: C-AHT288, CAM150, CAM151, TAM1617, CAM4545, 51K1193, TAM1521, GEG300, C-AHT188, C-STR1057, A regular visitor to the message board, and something I am asked frequently about in my other incarnations for other technical media. Generally when something has gone badly wrong! Many folks have just as many ways of dealing with the following subjects - all can and will claim their way has worked for them for the proverbial millennia - so a few words as a basic reference and guide as I see them; we all know there are always exceptions to the rules. This is to help those floundering in an unknown sea of techno-babble and 'magical' cures…

Engine - 998 tuning, further options

Following on from the easily bolted on performance enhancing components out-lined in the stage one section, we need to consider where to go to get more power output.

Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio

To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money. Power production of any engine, once the 'breathing apparatus' (induction/exhaust system) has been dealt with to cause no restriction ...

Exhausts - Basic information

The sheer volume and diversity of bolt on goodies available for our cherished Minis underlines the fact that a very large portion of them is modified in some way. Be it just dress up items to personalise it aesthetically, or tuning parts to improve performance.

In the latter’s case, either more power or more economy are sought - both being desired by many. Should it also enhance the looks at the same time, so much the better. Unfortunately not many components can achieve this without integrating with a number of others. The exhaust system, however, is one of the few.

Although the exhaust’s efficiency and effectiveness is reliant on a well matched system from the exhaust valve in the cylinder head to the tail pipe, the majority view it as two separate pieces - the exhaust manifold, and the ‘system’. Not entirely mis-placed, as this is how vendors present them - folk buying one or the other, though mostly both, dependent on guidance

Flywheel - Verto types (not injection)

There is only one version of this flywheel as standard, and fits all A+, Verto or Valeo (same type, different manufacturer) installations. And it's heavy. Very heavy.

Those up-rating power outputs in later Minis bearing this set-up were stuck with it. It is possible to shave a few ounces off this chunk of iron, but is difficult - especially for the DIY-er - and not cost effective when paying to have it done. Mini Spares recognised this shortfall early on. Sympathising with the plight of their customers, they produced a replacement outer section for the Verto kit from the same high-grade steel as used in the other light-weight versions.

	LB	KG
Standard Verto flywheel outer section only - unmodified	12.83	5.82
Steel Verto flywheel outer section only	8.84	4.01

Ignition - Pertronix Ignitor issues

I have been using the Ignitor ignition systems for some 8 years or so, as long as they have available in the UK, and have never found fault with them nor had any reliability issues. Until the beginning of this year… A new customer for this year, racing an MG Midget here in UK under a limited mods category, was doing splendidly for the first couple of races, then started experiencing a misfire. Initially it was believed to be a fuel starvation/vaporization issue. All fuel pipes were checked and re-routed where it was considered necessary. Those still considered in danger of getting too warm were heat shielded. The misfire persisted. On to the ignition system. All was checked, but then a loose alternator wire was found and blamed for the fault. It wasn't. Back to the ignition system then.

Lubrication - Oil pumps

Essential to the well being of every engine is its oil pump and oil. Much in the same way as the heart and blood is deemed relatively important to us humans! It's also another of those greatly misunderstood and, unfortunately, misrepresented subjects connected to engines.

An alarming number of so-called A-series engine specialists would have you believe that once parting with a veritable bundle of your hard earned readies on that mega motor, what you really need to keep it in good health is a high-pressure/high-flow oil pump. Seems a sensible consideration - except in the A-series world it's impossible. Oh, there are pumps that will give better flow rates than others, but high pressure? Absolutely not.

Oil pressure is regulated by the relief valve in the block of an A-series, not in the oil pump as with say a Ford. Yeah, you know - the one that gets jammed, causing heart failure as you believe your crank bearings have dissolved, and is a pig to get out.

C-AHT280 COMPETITION HEAD STUD, NUT & WASHER KIT

Performance orientated engines, particularly those utilising large over-bore sizes (i.e. 73.5mm), can suffer from premature head gasket failures because of the inadequate quality and performance from the standard head studs. Mini Spares has therefore produced a replacement kit to eliminate these problems.

C-AJJ3322 - MINI SPARES FIXED ADJUSTMENT BELT DRIVE KIT

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimises valve train noise - desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fibreglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems-even when a tensioner is used.

C-AJJ3328 MINI SPARES VERNIER ADJUSTABLE CAM BELT DRIVE

No Longer Available see C-AJJ3328RACE

The ubiquitous toothed belt cam drive system, originally developed for high performance race engines, is now generally accepted as the norm on all state of the art modern engines.

C-AJJ3328RACE MINI SPARES VERNIER ADJUSTABLE CAM BELT DRIVE KIT - FITTING INSTRU...

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desireable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used.

C-AJJ3385 – Twin Cross-pin diff assembly.

This differential unit incorporates a twin cross-pin assembly and four planet gears. The kit is made to accept standard production crown wheels and standard differential output shafts of your choice

C-STN17 - MINI SPARES STAGE ONE KIT (998cc only)

Beware: Instructions must be read carefully.

Although the 998/1300 stage one kits are bolt on parts easily fitted by any person with mechanical knowledge, the following must be understood.

MINI ENGINE STABILISER MSSK1000

1. This is an auxiliary steady bar kit and should not be used to replace any other standard fitment parts that have broken.

2. Remove the radiator support bracket from the radiator and the thermostat housing.

3. Slacken the nut retaining the exhaust manifold at the radiator end of the engine.

4. Remove the three bolts securing the bulkhead blanking plate as shown in the diagram. If the car has a heater pipe as indicated on the diagram then this should be disconnected at the engine.